Codex of costumes

Dating back to around 1546-1547, this manuscript captures attire from Spain, neighboring regions under the rule of Holy Roman Emperor Charles V, and even far-off lands like America and Africa.

The codex, crafted on paper bearing an Augsburg watermark from 1546, stands as an invaluable resource detailing the fashion and customs prevalent during Charles V’s reign. Its epigraphs in German offer insights into the clothing styles of various ethnicities: Portuguese, Berbers, Indians, French, English, Turks, Tatars, Irish, Croats, and Hungarians, among others. While the manuscript’s creator remains anonymous, echoes of Northern Renaissance masters like Albrecht Dürer, Albrecht Altdorfer, and Hans Burgkmair, among others, are discernible in its artistry.

This manuscript not only serves as a historical reference for 16th century fashion but also hints at a possible artist’s travelogue, possibly capturing sketches during Emperor Charles V’s journeys across Spain, Flanders, and Germany. These miniatures were transformed into widely disseminated woodcuts.

The Codex of Costumes showcases attire across Charles V’s vast empire, revealing the evolving fashion landscape influenced by sumptuary laws, attempting to regulate social class distinctions and extravagant expenses. Despite such regulations, fashion continued to flourish, impacting both nobles and commoners, as seen in the opulent depiction of the emperor and the seven elector princes.

This historical manuscript underscores its connection with influential artists of the time, such as Lucas Cranach the Elder and Jan Cornelisz Vermeyen, whose works are mirrored in its illustrations, exemplifying the fashion frenzy prevalent during Charles V’s reign.

Crafted in imperial cities like Augsburg and Nuremberg, renowned for their artistic finesse in illustrating fashion, this manuscript might have been a product of travels alongside the emperor, embodying a fusion of Spanish, Flemish, and German fashion influences, depicting the fluidity of image exchange between these regions.

The facsimile edition of the Codex of Costumes is complemented by a bookcase for its conservation and a complementary study book made by subject matter experts.

This facsimile is a unique edition of 595 books numbered and authenticated by notarial deed.

In this video, Teresa Mezquita Mesa, during her time as Director of the Department of Rare Manuscripts and Incunabula of the National Library of Spain, explains and contextualises the Codex of Costumes: